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It's good to see my pic is still in circulation. Seeing their boat is how I found this place, for a land locked Texan, their adventures are pretty amazing. Mike | ||||
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| BILL KIMLEY Forum Moderator, Seahorse Marine, Zhuhai, China ![]() |
Long post from Benno and Marlene about their amazing adventures before reaching the Horn. From PUP. From: Benno Klopfer <bennoklopfer@yahoo.com> Subject: [PUP] Long, long, long story! Part two from Diesel Duck > Dear Friends, > This is the follow-up of the first part of our Diesel Duck > 41 story, which was published in January on this list. This > part will cover briefly our travels. > > With a finished new Duck we left Whitby, Canada in Sept. > 2005 the way Ontarians do, down the New York Canal, Hudson > and the ICW. By the time we reached Miami, our seamanship > skills were sharpened up. While in Canada my theory in > navigation was paper charts only, having done a big trip on > our sailboat 20 years ago with two Atlantic crossings, the > use of paper charts was burnt into my system. Well, from > Miami on, I basically used electronic charts, C-Map, which > came with our Furuno Navnet. Oh, what a joy these > electronic charts can be. Our paper charts were not thrown > overboard. I still use them for route planning and as a > back-up. > Our route brought us through the Caribbean with all the > pleasant islands like: St. Thomas, St. Martin, Martinique > etc. all the way to Margarita, Venezuela. The diesel fuel > is dirt cheap there and very clean, but high in sulphur > content. (Not a bad thing, really). 3000 liter (800 gal) > was US $36. Unbelievable isn't it? > The winter 2006/7 was spent in St. Thomas close to sources > for Butterball turkey and the whole works for Xmas. 2007 we > did the Caribbean cruise again and stopped in Cumana, > Venezuela to fill up the Duck with the good, inexpensive > diesel. Here is some food for thought. Two 24 pack of > excellent Polar beer cost US $12, and 1000 liter (265 gal) > cost the same. What would you buy? > > We managed to get a cruising permit for Venezuela and the > permission to go to Puerto Ordaz up on the Orinoco river. > The route to get there logically is to bypass Trinidad in > the Gulf of Paria and entering south of Trinidad the Rio > Macareo, one of the delta arms of the mighty Rio Orinoco. > The Orinoco forms 5 delta arms emptying the water into the > Atlantic. Three of them used to be navigational, but not > any more. The arm Rio Manamo got closed up with a dam to > save the city of Tucupita from flooding. The arm Rio Grande > is still used for shipping and ore carriers use it. The arm > Rio Macareo was used during the war and dredged. German > U-boats kept a check on the mouth of the Rio Grande, but the > Rio Macareo flows into the Gulf of Paria and this section > was too shallow for the U-boat. Dredging stopped in the > fifties, but with the knowledge of a few way-points, Diesel > Duck was able to venture into an area which is pure > undisturbed jungle with the exception of Indians and drug > runners. No law and order. Even the chief of the village > works with the Columbians and Trinis. Fast pineros loaded > down with 50 gal drums of Acetone passed us. The Indian > women were employed by the Columbians in plants hidden in > the delta to manufacture Cocaine. Twice we were stopped and > checked out by drug bosses and every time we convinced them > we were only a mom and pop boat and gave a dickens about > their business. It cost us some cold beer. After 120 miles > in currents that ran up to 2 knots, we hit the Orinoco, > which has a 4 knot current running. Almost no tourist boats > go up there. Maybe one boat every few years. The Orinoco > is being used by commercial shipping and patrolled by > Guardia National toting machine guns on fast metal crafts, > with two 250 hp Johnsons on the back. We caused quite an > upheaval with our presence and the teniente told us: > "You cannot anchor here. It is too dangerous. Mucho > banditos! You have to go for the night to Puerto Ordaz > which is only two hours away." 20 miles and more > upriver with a current of 4 knots. It would take us about > 10 hours to cover this. We were doing only 2 knots over the > ground in one hour. But the Guardia National boat would > cover this in a breeze. I almost convinced the teniente to > leave one of the FN Assault rifles with us for protection, > but after consulting with his superior over the cell phone, > the deal was off. The following day we got to the Armada > base in Puerto Ordaz, where we were incredibly well > received. They even brought us supper to the boat. There > at the base they told us to always lock up the boat. I > asked, "Banditos?" "No" they said, > "Ratas." Marlene couldn't get the DD fast > enough closed up. The whole trip was 185 miles upriver. > Many times pure jungle and lots of floating rafts of > hibiscus. One morning a tarantula was already halfway up > the anchor chain before we could persuade her to get back > onto the floating island which had rapped itself around the > anchor chain. Finishing the trip back down river, DD > sometimes topped 12 knots over the ground. Amazing! > > For the winter 2007/8 we sailed from Bonaire to Puerto > Rico, to spend another Xmas in St. Thomas. To be more > precise, only two months while fitting a furling jib to the > Duck and to replace the guts of the freezer. We had the > furler shipped from Defender and the jib made locally. The > freezer's 12 V compressor and the evaporator plates came > from Sea Frost in the States. > > On 2. Jan. 2008 we started moving. A real Diesel Duck > blitz. 12. Feb. Margarita, Venezuela. After a visit in > Puerto La Cruz, we stopped in Caya Borracha to clean > DD's bottom while diving and from there onto Carabelleda > to fill up with diesel fuel. Please click up Piracy at the > noonsite webpage of the recent terrible pirate attacks in > Borracha and Caraballeda. > http://www.noonsite.com > With a 2 day stop in Curacao we arrived in Panama, Colon on > Easter Saturday. Darn! We missed tons of action there just > by a few days. Part of the new James Bond movie was made > there in the Shelter Bay Marina, Colon and surrounding > waters. All participating cruising boats were paid $100/day > up to 16 days to take part in spicing up the scenery while > Daniel Craig (James Bond) was shooting holes into boats. > Leaving DD in the marina we took a trip to Germany and > after our return hauled her out of the water for a bottom > job. A problem emerged from the Panama Canal Authorities in > Apr. 08. Canal transit time was backlogged up to 10 weeks > waiting time, because the canal pilots operated on a work to > rule campaign. Having blasted through the San Blas islands > before our trip to Germany, we then decided to sail back to > the 350+ islands of the San Blas to explore the reef > surrounded islands before they sink away by the global > warming. These islands are on the Atlantic side of Panama. > You don't have to sail 1000 miles west to lay hand on a > paradise like this. Almost every day we spent snorkeling > exploring the underwater world. One time in the Coco > Bandero Cays, a group of extremely scenic islands situated > behind a four mile long protective outer barrier reef, we > noticed a 35-40 ft. speed boat coming in at sundown. The > guys on it went overboard diving and before nightfall the > boat took off again toward the open sea. Next morning an > outboard powered Kuna Indian boat with three men arrived and > chased away another Kuna Indian in a dugout who started > diving at the same spot. We didn't think much of it at > the time, but a few days later, the same exercise repeated > itself. Being curious and always looking to explore new > areas, I snorkeled past the spot on the way to a reef I > hadn't explored yet. There I noticed a 20 ft container > with an open door in 30 feet of clear water on the sea > bottom. It looked like a little underwater warehouse. What > the hell is going on here? Columbia was less than 100 miles > south. Well, I leave it at that. Marlene purchased several > Molas from the Kuna women. At times we were totally swarmed > by industrious Indians pushing their wares and we tried to > explain that we already had enough and didn't want any > more. > In the Eastern Lemmon Cays on Banedup island lives a Kuna > family running a little bakery for Kuna bread. Kuna bread > looks like a hot dog bun, but tastes like French bread. > Kunas are very business minded and dollars are very much > on their minds when they spot foreigners. This family > counts the anchored boats and how many people are on board. > Then, in the afternoon, when the bread is ready, the baker > blows a conch shell horn and the surrounding cruisers jump > in their dinghies to purchase this warm, crusty, fresh > bread. We followed the example and brought a half a dozen > loafs back to DD to be devoured with gusto. However, my > appetite diminished when I discovered the added protein > baked within (weevils). > > Our biggest problem in the San Blas was the rain and the > relentless thunderstorms at this time of year. Quite > unsettling sometimes to watch lightening all around us. The > rainy season had arrived and the humidity climbed sometimes > up to 100%. Change of plans! DD left the San Blas and did > an overnighter to Boca del Toro at the Costa Rica border. > However, it rained a lot there too so we sailed into the Rio > Chagres by Colon. An old pirate holdout and pure jungle > teeming with wildlife like jungle cats and monkeys. There > were plenty of wild mango trees. Fruit ripe to eat and > plentiful to pick. Hoards of monkeys gorging themselves on > these sweet fruits and they didn't mind when we helped > ourselves also for an easy picking. > While we sat in these still waters I used the opportunity > to do engine maintenance. Changed the timing belt, a 2000 > hrs maintenance requirement on our trusted Perkins diesel > engine. Then exchanged the transmission fluid and the > engine oil. We had heard that the canal pilots run the > engines at full throttle. Buggers they are! Being prepared > is better than having an engine problem in the middle of the > canal. > With a freshly serviced engine and a good load of juicy > mangoes, DD arrived on Independence Day, the 4th of July at > Colon harbor. We visited the Panama Canal Authorities' > office, paid the $600 fee and the $800 deposit to get the > ball rolling for the canal transit and made an appointment > for the Admeasurer, a name for the guy who is like some kind > of inspector. He inspects your toilet and makes sure the > canal pilot does not have to use a bucket or bed pan on your > boat. I am convinced, these pilots have seen it all and > have had wild experiences. The Admeasurer measures as well > the boat's length, width and heights and tells you to > feed the pilot an evening meal, a breakfast and a lunch plus > snacks in-between. Just in case these meals are not up to > snuff, the pilot will have himself meals catered from a > fancy outfit to the boat and the cost will be deducted from > your $800 deposit. A dry cleaning of his clothes or uniform > if your boat is filthy will as well bring your deposit into > trouble. > > In Balboa by Panama City, DD entered the Pacific Ocean and > sailed on to the Perlas islands. The Perlas get their name > from when the Spanish conquistadores Casper de Morales and > Francisca Pizarro robbed a large amount of pearls from the > indigenous King Toe. They defeated the king and enslaved > his skilled pearl divers. Queen Mary Tudor of England's > 31 carat "peregrina" pearl came from these > islands. We snorkeled there also, but didn't find one > single pearl. However, on the northern shore of the Isla > San Telmo, we noticed a beached > U-boat. It looked like a Japanese midget WWII submarine > were you lash a torpedo on each side and with a kamikaze > pilot it is steered into an enemy harbor and blows up an > important target. Later, while in Ecuador, I did some > research on this sub and found some interesting web sites > about this boat. > http://www.spiegel.de/internat...0,1518,412287,00html > http://www.thehunley.com/NEWSL..._MAY_JOIN_THE-HUNLEY > http://wikipedia.org/wik/Sub_Marine_Explorer > http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Julius_H_Kroehl > > The other attraction at the Perlas islands were the TV > stages on the beaches for the TV series "Survivor" > Brazilian and Columbian film crews were shooting their > episodes. > > Passing Isla San Telmo, DD steered toward the Golfo de San > Miguel and stopped overnight at La Palma, the entrance to > the Rio Tuira for an adventurous trip. We traveled the > Orinoco last year, so this year we had the Rio Chargres and > the Rio Tuira on our plate. The Rio Chargres is dammed > after a few miles and is now part of the Panama Canal. But > the Rio Tuira is wild, forbidden jungle and not without some > danger, we found out ourselves. Our plan was to go all the > way up to the town of Yaviza, a wild west town with a > special police detachment to stem the flow of trouble from > the nearby Columbian guerillas. From Palma to Yaviza > it's 52 miles of jungle river. DD with 4-1/2 ft draft > still had to use the rising tide to navigate this river. > Rising tide allows you to float free when you hit ground. > In Yaviza, the Pan-American Highway stops. It begins in > Alaska and ends at Tierra de Fuego, Argentina. Between > Yaviza, Panama and Arquia, Columbia are 60 miles missing to > link the highway. Stupid political reasons prevent this > important road to be finished. > > DD worked itself up the river with the tides to Yaviza > covering the 52 miles in two days. Not easy while dodging > huge debris floating down river. The wildlife was > incredible. Alligators, snakes and colorful birds. When > the tide was running out, the current reached 4-1/2 knots. > On the 3rd of Aug. we reached Yaviza. While on the approach > to the river harbor and the current against us (thanks God) > concentrating our eyes on a pedestrian suspension bridge in > front of us, we hit high power overhead lines, which stopped > the boat. Marlene screamed "Wire overhead" and I > hit the gear into reverse, gunning up the engine. DD > separated from the cable and with shaking knees we anchored > a few hundred yards down stream. Somehow we weren't > electrocuted but we felt the static. All equipments worked > still fine. Only the extrusion of the jib furler was bent > and the upper bearing block had deep scratches and burn > marks. The new furling jib took the impact. > The locals of Yaviza were parading along the harbor front > and over the small suspension bridge to have a peek at DD. > Two special forces policemen came by to see our papers and > mentioned to us that they had never seen a tourist boat up > there before. After a night anchored off the town, we > ventured back down stream, but against the tide. During the > night we struggled to free a huge mess of bamboo trees and > logs that had tangled in our anchor chain. > > Once back in the Pacific, we plotted a course to Isla > Gorgona, Columbia, just SW off the city Buenaventura. The > island used to be a prison island from 1967 to 1984. Now it > is a presidential retreat for the president of Columbia and > a resort. It is heavily guarded by the Armada and special > police troop when the president or family members are > visiting. When we arrived on Sunday, the First Lady and > daughter were there but after they left on Monday, we were > invited to come ashore and dine with the manager of the Bio > Resort and to tour the prison ruins and area. > > From Isla Gorgona, DD sailed further down the seashore, > always hugging the coast to pick up a counter current in the > lee of the land. The sea is often calm at night. We > stopped in Ecuador at the Bahia de Caraquez, where we spent > six weeks under anchor at Puerto Amistad socializing with a > bunch of nice cruising folks. Next stop was the very nice > Marina of Puerto Lucia in Salinas, where we left DD to fly > home to attend our son's wedding. > > On Nov. 26th we started from Salinas, Ecuador on a nonstop > sail to Iquique, Chile, bypassing Peru. It took us ten days > to sail these 1400 miles. We were somehow a little late in > the season to get down to Chile before the wind along the > Peruvian coast picks up, but we just managed to slip by. > Yes, we had strong winds in the Golfo de Guayaquil where the > Humboldt current meets the South Pacific Equatorial current > and kicks up a sea. Our outboard motor bracket with the 15 > hp Yamaha mounted on broke off. But just in the nick of > time we were able to lash the Yamaha to the main boom and > save it from falling overboard. > > We sailed along the coast of Chile with pit stops in > Mejillones des Sur, Coquimbo and Algarrobo to pick up diesel > fuel or to break up the voyage without night watches for a > night or so. Our plan to sail from Algarrobo to Valdivia we > had to change NW on Isla de St. Maria, when a weather > warning of 30-35 kt winds and going to 40 kt forced us to > turn around and run back to Talcahuano, which we had past > during the night. The last couple of hours of getting into > the safety of the protected harbor were slaughter motoring > into 30 knots with an ugly side effect. The rapidly > dropping barometric pressure caused our compass to develop > an air-bubble. This compass is a Venus from C-Plath, > apparently one of the best. Our plan was to spend Christmas > in Valdivia, but now we were here, 220 miles north of > Valdivia and being guests at the Chilean Armada's own > marina. They furnished us with a special pass to get > through the gate of the military compound. > > Up to now the weather gods were kind to us. it was a beat > from Panama on against current and wind. Our trick was to > use the lee of the land, hug the coast and most nights there > was no wind or variable winds caused by the land effect. > Many times we picked up a counter current and the Duck was > doing up to 7 kt. But my diesel fuel usage calculation was > down the drain. In the Caribbean the Duck managed to burn > 4.2 - 5.0 liter/hr and the sails were helping too. At the > run along the western south American coast the fuel use hit > 7 to 7.5 liter/hr. A price we had to pay beating into > prevailing winds and current. We left Talcahuano and from > that day on, to Valdivia and later to Puerto Montt, getting > closer to the 40th latitude, everything started to change. > The winds blew stronger out of the south or southwest. The > night temperature went down to 7 deg. C. There were days > where the Duck had to beat into 28 kt for hours on end. It > was uncomfortable, but doable. Marlene produced lots of > ready meals that just needed to be heated or cup a soup > where you just add hot water instead of cooking elaborate > dinners. > Puerto Montt is a wonderful place to stop. The marina, in > our case Club Nautico Reloncavi, was inexpensive, about > $5/day + electricity for a finger dock. > > For cruising in the Patagonian canals, you have to get or > buy at least 2 mooring lines, floating polypropylene lines, > each 120 m long to tie up to trees or rocks while stopping > for the night in addition to your anchor. The charter boats > mount the lines on big stainless steel reels, but we stuffed > them into empty sail bags, which worked fine. Luckily, the > winds blew strong from the north in the Patagonia canals. > We experienced 40 kt and when you are tied up for the night, > rachas (williwaws) roll down the mountains fiercely, shaking > the whole boat. Now you appreciate the two extra 3/4 inch > polypropylene lines tied to the trees. > > After a restful couple of weeks in Puerto Montt, the DD > moved on to Puerto Williams, the most southern town on this > planet. A 1000 miles through winding canals and sometimes > open waters. The Glaciers were a special attraction to us, > waking up with thousands of ice floes next to the boat. We > have not sailed the inside passage in British Columbia to > Alaska, but this must be in comparison similar. > Here is a little adventure which lurks beneath the water > surface. One time in the channel, moving also, our > propeller hit something soft, cutting through what turned > out to be kelp. The rails of the DD started to vibrate and > the boat lost speed. We hit the neutral gear and cut the > RPM. Shifting into reverse or forward did not help. The > propeller was rendered useless! The water temperature was a > whopping 45 deg. F inviting me to jump overboard. I was > really sorry at that moment I was not an owner of a wetsuit > or better yet a dry suit. I had to investigate the state of > the propeller. My tools were swimming trunk, mask, fins and > a hooker for air. I did my fastest dive ever, cutting free > the propeller from a pile of kelp which had rapped itself > around the prop like a frigging mess in less than 60 > seconds. Hey, speed is everything! > > Now we are in Puerto Williams, tied to the famous > "Micalvi", a retired Armada supply ship, serving > now as a club house and bar. Meanwhile 40 miles further > south a strong gale blows around the horn. Shall we go to > the horn? It is only a few hours of cruising time away. We > are ready in our minds. > So long to you all. > Benno and Marlene "Diesel Duck" | |||
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Golly George, all the great Duck milestones will have been passed before we can get out of Asia. I intend to take Dora Mac to either the South or North Pole, ,,, depending on which one melts first. Randal | ||||
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Well done George..and the owners...great little boat and voyage...too many fun things to do!!! Lifetime sailing including 1990 BOC Singlehanded Around World Race...many Antarctic sailing expeditions....lived together alone in a box in Antarctica for a year. | ||||
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Hi Congratulation . I hope you will upload some photos of you ship . Jacques Montreal / Canada | ||||
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