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Thanks for the Report and suggestions. Other owners may wish to check the output of their Victron inverter/charger as the default charging voltage is not 100% output (70A) I bought the Victron interface so that I could program the charger and optomise the functions and I recommend this over the very awkward dip switch method. For those not familiar with my boat, I had Arild Jensen review and design the electrical charging system from day 1 and I highly recommend his approach to the way I use the boat. One of my wishes was that the boat be able to run the electrical system off the alternators and inverter(s) when underway. This dictated 2 x 140A Leece Neville alternators on the main engine and 2 Victron 3000W x 24V inverter/chargers. With a bit of load management I can do all voltage intensive operations when underway and running aircon at the same time. My watermaker is the same as Randals and 220V. A 24V watermaker would shed some load load off the inverters and free them up for other work. Another wish was for rapid house bank charging. The battery bank is 800 AHr @ 24V AGM's with a Victron 100A charger plus the inverter/chargers. This set up pounds the batteries with a temperature limited 240A (100 + 70 + 70) on the chargers and 280 with the alternators. Do not try this high charge rate if you do not have AGM batteries. I never see the full alternator output as they are degraded by temperature and limited by integral temperature sensors. This can charge the 800 AHr bank up PDQ and limits genset running time. Perhaps too techie for most, but the new mod this trip is to use one of the virtual switches in the inverters to shut off the 100A charger when bulk charge is over, thereby shedding load off the genset so that I can use these amps for another high load device. This will allow me to run the genset fully loaded, and reduce run time. A fairly simple mod using constant duty solenoids, however one could simply use ones finger and manually switch off the charger just as easily. Given that I need to manually switch on the next load anyway the only advantage would be some fuel savings by reduced genset load if not bringing more AC load on line to replace that now not being used by the charger. I have a domestic fridge and the normal draw is 13.5A with just it and the DC freezer running with the odd light and small DC loads. A fairly high load as Randal notes and the fridge and freezer are the main amperage hogs. This limits the amount of time the boat can sit without me starting the genset as I do not have solar or wind generation. I am considering using the other virtual switch to trigger a genset start/stop box if I need to leave the boat for longer than the batteries can keep the fridge and freezer alive. My boat is a power hog, and I am in a tropical environment. In retrospect, a larger genset would be nice so that I can charge full on, run aircon(s) and high high loads all at the same time. If aircon is not an issue than the standard genset is fine. It should be noted that my set up allows me to run the aft cabin 8000 BTU aircon overnight on the batteries - a nice feature in the tropics. As Randal notes, the end design is all about how you use the boat so YMMV Robert | ||||
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Has anyone used the Isotherm SP freezer and fridge systems. The use very little amps and would cut down on the energy usage. The reviews are generally good, even in tropical waters. | ||||
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